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By: CappersPicks.com Online Poker
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Online Poker - Looking
For Tips & Strategy For Playing 7 Card Stud
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Rules of the Deal:
How to Play 7 Card Stud Poker - The Rules:
As the game
begins, the dealer deals clockwise starting
on their immediate left. They deal one card
to each of the players until each player
has two pocket cards, which are face down,
and a single card, also known as the "door" card,
face up. The dealer then indicates which
player will open the betting, determined
by the lowest door card. If there's a tie
for the low door card, the card suit resolves
it: spades outrank hearts, followed by
diamonds, and finally clubs as the lowest
suit.
Once
the initial cards have been dealt, the
game begins. At this point there are three
cards on the table per player, which is
called "Third Street".
The
player holding the lowest door card must "bring it in" by
opening with a bet equal to twice the ante.
If the low door player doesn't make this
bet, they're forced to Fold and the opener
passes to the player on their left.
The next player clockwise from the opener
can Call by matching the opener, Raise by
betting the low betting limit or Fold. Throughout
third street all Bets and Raises are fixed
at the low betting limit.
For “Fourth Street” the
dealer gives each player another open,
or up-facing, card. The opener in the fourth
and remaining streets is the high hand,
as determined by the open cards. They may
Check (Pass) or Bet. It they Bet it's at
the low limit, and which fixes all raises
in this round to the same. If the high
hand is an open pair, the opener can Bet
at the upper limit, and this fixes all
Raises in the round to the same.
For “Fifth and Sixth Street” cards
are dealt up again, and the high hand opens.
All Bets and Raises are at the upper limit.
As
the game goes into “Seventh Street” the
last card, called the "river",
is another pocket card (a face down card).
All bets and raises are once again at the
high limit.
After “Seventh Street” the
Bets and Raises are resolved, and the remaining
players enter the Showdown. The opener reveals
his pocket cards. If a player wishes to compete
with this hand they too reveal their pocket
cards, or they can Fold.
The dealer then calls the winner, as determined
by the best 5-card hand under normal Poker
rules.
Seven Card Stud Strategy
7-Card Stud is one of the most demanding
Poker games. There are a lot of cards on
the table, each street demands a different
approach, and the betting can move from modest
to sweat-breaking in minutes. It's a skill,
memory and strategy game that can be exhilarating,
punishing and even humiliating. Our strategy
guide will help you enjoy more of the former
and suffer less of the latter.
Bankroll Management
As mentioned in our Stud Rules section, the
minimum Buy-In is typically 10-times the
low limit, or $20 for a $2-$4 game. But
playing with the minimum is not recommended.
Using the 40-times recommendation, the
player should buy in with a minimum of
$80 for the $2-$4 games, $320 for the $8-$16
games, and $400 for the $10-$20.
You can always play with less, but the chances
are you won't have enough to see you through
to the point where you've got a feel for
the other players and can bring your skills
to bear. If you're underfunded you'll be
nervous and therefore at a disadvantage right
off the top.
Choosing a Game
Stud games are defined
by their betting limits. The low stakes online
games are usually $2-$4 while the higher
games are typically $8-$16 or $10-$20. I've
seen land casino Stud at $100-$200 or higher,
but these stakes are very rare on the web.
The game's betting limits tell the Stud
player pretty much everything they need to
know about the nature of the game, the expectations
of the players, and the size of the bankroll
you should have before you sit in.
The Ante
As mentioned in
the Rules Section the usual Ante in the lower-end
games is 10% of the low betting limit. When
the betting limits climb so does this percentage,
up to 25% or so. These higher percentage
Antes actually change the nature of the game.
The proportionally larger pot makes it worthwhile
to come in strong in an attempt to "steal" the
Antes.
Different games,
different strategies
When stealing the
Ante becomes a worthwhile proposition, the
speed and intensity of play also increases,
which in turn requires a shift in playing
strategy. Stud players traditionally find
it difficult to make the transition to the
higher betting limits precisely because of
this change.
Level of play
It should come as
no surprise that the big games attract the
big players. A rookie can and will get eaten
alive by the sharks at the $100-$200 tables
without learning much in the process. What's
the point of that? Remember, Stud is a skill
game and overestimating yours will cost you
money.
Playing the Cards
A major part of
any winning player's strategy has to be card
memory and card analysis. Studying what's
on the table and what it could mean is critical
in Stud. You must observe the upcards in
each street and ask yourself:
does it help or hurt your chances?
does it help or hurt the receiving player's
chances?
does it help or hurt the other player's chances?
Trips
Three of a Kind
(a.k.a Trips, "a set")
is the best opening hand in 7-Card Stud and
the higher the rank the better. They can
often win you the round without improvement
and leave you great flexibility in your betting
and positioning in the coming streets.
If anyone at the table knew you held Trips
right off, they'd almost certainly Fold.
The usual recommendation is to take it slow
and hide what you've got. Bet modestly, Check
or Call as necessary, until you're in the
high streets (5-7th) where you can drag more
money into the pot.
You want to
keep as many players in as long as possible
because you're probably going to beat them.
This is called the "slow
play" and is designed to maximize the
pot.
If you're holding
a set of "scare cards" (Aces
or Kings), or highest door card, keep in
mind that everyone is expecting you to Raise,
so if you don't they're going to wonder what's
up. With anything other than the scare cards
there's no need to bother.
At "the turn" (fourth
street) you continue to play modestly,
keeping the other players in.
Once you hit
fifth it's time to make the others pay
to stay. If they're still in at the fifth,
the chances are that they'll want to see
the "river" (seventh street)
and won't be scared off by the steeper action
you provide.
As ever, watch the opponents cards watching
for anything that could honestly threaten
your potential win.
High Pairs
After Trips, a High
Pair (10s or better) is the best starting
hand you could hope for. If the paired cards
are in the hole (face down) that's even better:
open cards are worth less since the others
can see or surmise what you've got. This
is a solid position for an opening Bet or
Raise or even a re-Raise if you hold highest
door, J or better.
Don't be afraid of strong betting in third
and fourth streets because you want to eliminate
as many players as possible while it's cheap
to do so. You still need to improve on your
hand so you don't want anyone to pull cards
for free.
If there are better door cards on the table--you've
got holed Queens and there's a King and Ace
on the table--it's probably wise to leave
it at a single Raise. If it's two Aces, for
example, on the table then don't hesitate
since it's already looking like a broken
threat.
If you door card is reasonable, say a 10
or Jack, and the High Pair is buried you're
in an ideal situation. Your Raise will look
like you're moving on the Paired 10s, for
example, and the other players will respond
accordingly. You're in an excellent position
to pull them in deeper in the later streets.
By fifth the remaining hands that do not
have an obvious strong position (non-paired
opens) are probably draw hands. Raise in
order to knock them out.
Sixth and seventh: if you're not beaten
by the open cards and you've improved on
the Pair, Raise. Otherwise you have to consider
Folding, or at least Check along if there's
no Raises to match and nothing on the table
looks threatening.
Three to a Flush
Three cards to a
Flush is a "drawing" hand:
you need cards to make anything worthwhile.
That said, it's worth a Raise, but how much
money you can put behind it without giving
yourself away is largely determined by your
door card.
If your doorcard is Faces or Aces (A, K,
Q, J), then the Raise will look like you're
backing a high Pair. If your door leads,
following a Raise and re-Raise will probably
pass without being suspected.
The "head" cards,
highest of the held cards, also affect
how you play the hand. Assuming you don't
have High door as above, you want J or
better in the Flush to justify the betting.
This way you're drawing to both the Flush
and a High Pair to balance the expense.
If you've got
a weak door or no High cards you need to
get to fourth street as cheaply as possible
since you're facing 5 to 1 odds against
completing your hand. Consider mucking
if any of the cards you need are "dead" (in
another player's hand).
If Fourth street
brings you a fourth for the Flush you're
facing 1.5 to 1 against completing, which
is good odds at this point and worth a
Raise. Consider mucking if two or more
of the cards you need are "dead" or
if you've got no High Pair possibilities
as an out.
Fifth street: you must have that fourth
to the Flush by this point in order to justify
further betting. If you get it, and especially
if there's a High Pair out, consider raising.
The odds are still reasonable that you'll
complete (2 to 1 against).
By the sixth the odds are swinging against
you at 4 to 1 to complete. You can only justify
staying in if it's cheap and there's still
some chance of an out. Otherwise muck.
Three to a Straight
Again, we're talking
about a draw hand, and this one's a lot tougher
to complete than the 3-Card Flush. If you've
got two or three High cards, you've got a
chance at a High Pair as an out. This hand
can sustain a Raise or even a re-Raise if
it's an Outside Straight (can be completed
from either end). But don't let A-K-Q fool
you: that's an Inside Straight (only open
at one end) and is better played for it's
Pairing possibilities.
Throughout the round it's doubly important
to study the other players cards for anything
that could kill your Straight. If any one
of the cards you could use is dead, it seriously
detracts from your completion chances.
At fourth street you want another (consecutive)
card in your Straight. If you don't get it,
Fold unless all of your cards beat the up
cards. If you've still got an Outside Straight
you're facing 1.3 to 1 odds against completing
and this is worth continuing to play. If
you draw a fourth to the Straight and it
leaves you with an Inside Straight consider
folding unless you're holding the two highest
up cards.
At fifth street you're facing 2 to 1 odds
against completing. If you still have two
of the highest up cards then it's worth Check
or Call to continue to the sixth. Otherwise
Fold. Four to a Straight is tempting to chase,
but it's not nearly as good a bet as it looks.
By sixth street
you're facing 5 to 1 odds and there's no
justification to continue unless all necessary
cards are still "live" (in
play, not "dead"). If your open
cards still lead, it's worth a Raise. Muck
if you're facing a double Raise.
Playing Style
There are a million
hands is Stud and probably just as many ways
to advise a player on their playing strategy.
From all I've seen and read I'd say that
it boils down to two options: Bull or Bear.
The Bear
This player is conservative,
plays "tight",
takes the risks only when there's something
to back it up. In this play style the streets
largely determine the player's action.
On third street the tight player has a simple
choice, do they have the goods? If they're
holding Trips, three to either a Flush or
Straight, a high Pair (10s or better) or,
at the very least, two of the highest cards
(A-K) they bet. Otherwise they Fold without
a second thought.
On fourth street it's a question of whether
they've improved their initial hand, still
appear to lead and have a solid chance of
bringing it home. At this point only Trips,
four to a Flush or Straight, Two Pair and
no visible competition justify a bet. Otherwise
the hand is over and nothing significant
has been risked.
The rest of
the round is the expensive streets and
the tight player must believe they are
holding the "nuts", the winning
hand. If they're still trying to draw that
hand, they'll only continue if it's cheap
to do so, the cards they need are still alive
(not showing), and the upcards pose no significant
threat. Otherwise, they're gone.
Playing tight is about risk minimization.
Nothing is ventured without the cards to
back it up. If the betting gets too steep,
Fold. If the cards are going against you,
Fold. If you're running out of time and still
don't have the cinch hand, Fold.
The Bull
Bullish, aggressive
play, is almost the opposite. What you have
in your hand is important, but it's equally
important to assess how your cards appear
to the other players. The bullish player
manipulates their opponents expectations
as much as they managing their own cards.
And they push the game, following a "Raise or Fold" policy, forcing
the other players to pay up or muck out.
The key to
bullish play, in addition to knowing your
game as well as the tight player does,
is careful card analysis. It's a never-ending
game of "how do my cards appear to him?", "am
I supporting that perception with my actions?", "is
he falling for it?", "can I use
his expectations to get more money on the
table?".
Sound tricky? It is! Bullish players make
Stud the roller-coaster ride that it is and
they demand the most of a player's powers
of observation, card analysis, and psychological
deception
Bull or Bear?
Is it better to
be a "rock", play
ultra-conservatively and only risk your money
when you've got the nuts. Or is it best to
play aggressively, only Fold or Raise, almost
never Check, and force the other players
to pony up or muck out?
While the beginning
player might think that tight play is the
shrewd approach, it's not necessarily so.
First, you'll get the reputation of being
a "rock" and few people
enjoy playing with someone who is tight-fisted
and super cautious. Worse, you're probably
going to lose. When the other players can
predict your card decisions they've got an
huge advantage and that will put your money
in their pocket.
Bullish play
is favored among professional players.
By choosing the "Raise or Fold" policy,
they force more money out onto the table.
And since their style is far less predictable
they have more room to maneuver, more ways
to attack, more opportunities to use your
expectations against you. Bullish play and
solid card skills wins the money.
Reading the Players
Anything that gives
a player's feelings or intentions away is
called a "tell" and
learning to read these is a key component
of Poker play. Obviously when you play
online, you're don't have direct access
to this information, so the dynamics of
the game change a bit. But there can still
be ways to gain this type of information.
The chat box that appears in most online
Poker games can be a dead give-away. I've
been in games where players would jump on
the chat box as soon as they read their cards
and had a good hand. They're happy and they
want to share their good feelings with others.
A shrewd Poker player absorbs this information
and uses it to gain a playing edge.
I've also seen players who would jump on
and cuss the cards whenever he thought he'd
received something good: he's trying to lull
the other players into thinking they've got
him beat. Same story: use what you know about
his playing style to beat him and take his
money.
To Bluff or not to
Bluff? The do's and don't of bluffing could
fill a small book on their own, but here
are a few of the most important things to
keep in mind: avoid bluffing heavy winners:
they can afford to Call and usually do.
Beginners are often
desperate to know what you've got and will
Call just for the sake of knowing.
experienced players play a cagey game, are
studying your actions more closely, and are
often easier to bluff.
ask yourself how good your cards might look
to the other players. Don't bluff without
at least a little something in your hand
to make it look threatening.
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